Mozambique’s biggest challenge…
On a friend’s recommendation, I went and volunteered at a school in Chimoio called Centro Internacional Njerenje (this is a really beautiful local tree, in Shona language), which is in the central province of Manica (for those of you who like to look at map). Chimoio is just 70km from the border of Zimbabwe and therefore brings a totally different dynamic than Maputo and its strong old colonialized Portuguese influence. To be honest, I didn’t really know what to expect, but what I found was impressive. But it helps first to understand the context of conditions here.
Mozambique is full of lovely people whose education levels are deplorable. Those that do have education have incomplete education meaning they don’t get a well rounded one, so that although they may be "smart" they may have missed out on things like taking initiative, being savvy with different audiences, wanting to take on responsibility, and understanding the bigger picture of why you are doing something and not just being mechanical. An example is that people love doing data entry jobs which many of us might see as one of the most thankless jobs ever. I am generalizing of course but one sees these immense human capacity challenges in all levels of society, even in the best of the best such as ministers and others. This is not to say there aren’t some exception people but sadly the majority tends to bring down the average.
The school I worked at is run by white Zimbabweans, mostly Afrikaans white Zimbabweans. The sad story of Zimbabwe in the past 4 or so years has been heartbreaking to many. Most people have had their land usurped, been kicked out of the country or are left there to suffer. Mugabe has really done a job, not to say anything of the triziliion inflation level, making world records. There are sparse supplies such as food and gasoline in Zimbabwe and people are making do best they can. As a result many have decided not to tolerate such a disagreeable environment and came over to Mozambique, however bringing a fraction with them of what they had in Zimbabwe. The usual news around the world covers the difficulties the black Zimbabweans are enduring by living there but there is little told about the white disenfranchised Zimbabweans who are not wanted there by the government, many of which are farmers that don’t have what to farm. Most of the staff at the school are these white Zimbabweans.
This is truly a story of making lemonade out of lemons. This school was put together 4 years ago, the first year with 3 students. They moved one year ago to a new location and have made such a wonderful environment for the now almost 70 kids, it’s truly a labor of love. I stayed with the directors, a husband and wife, who couldn’t have been more dedicated to what they have created out of nothing. Many of the kids are borders and stay for the week or semesters at a shot as their families are in other parts of Mozambique. It’s a lot like sleepaway camp in that there is such a nice dynamic amongst the kids, and the directors maintain a lively sports program as well. I helped out with the official rules of baseball. When the teacher told the kids that next semester they would be able to steal bases, one of the kids asked if that meant they were to take them home with them!
There were other great perks of the amazing 64 hectares that the school property occupies sitting on a plateau, such as watching the most amazing sunsets, enjoying the fruits and veggies from the farmers’ fields, and most of all seeing the milky way at night. I have been in places with as many stars as a planetarium but I don’t think I had ever seen the milky way itself. Like a strip of thin clouds but ones that magically appeared in the same place each night and only there. Really incredible, with the occasional satellite passing by but they were harder to spot (see pics of main building, directors house, hostel where borders stay, the cattle and gardens, sunsets with slivers of the moon, and of course the kids out playing sports here http://www.flickr.com/photos/vida-internacional/sets/72157601701546019/). I also learned about water divining and was able to do it! See this link for a longer explanation, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dowsing - I wouldn’t have believed it if I weren’t doing it!
In summary, it was such a great experience and hope to help out the school however I can when back in the states. The reason I’m such a fan of this school is because this school is a rarity in Mozambique, able to take low to avg students and raise them up in a healthy environment. Truly something Mozambique needs more of!
From turf to surf…
As school was at the end of its term and well without an actual job I couldn’t stay there forever, I planned to finally go to one of the nicer beaches of Mozambique. Mozambique has such a large chunk of the coast it’s a crime not to see some of its treasures. So from Chimoio, I went to Vilanculos which is a small town on the coast with the Bazaruto archipelago to its east: 4 beautiful islands with little disruption from man.
I took one of the day trips out snorkeling and to see a bit of the islands. You don’t really get to see much of the islands except the CRAZY tall sand dunes that line the edge of the islands. As you approach it looks like you are in the dessert (except of course for all that water). In the middle of the islands is a lot of wild brush but makes a beautiful contrast. The day I went I sadly had Murphy and his frustrating law not on my side as it was the windiest of all 3 days I was there. At least I can safely say that the snorkeling was a seriously good workout. But all in all it was good, the fish were amazing, such great colors as we were in a coral reef, and starfish of colors I didn’t even know they came in.
As for the water, well what I can say, looks like the Caribbean truly, a bit colder but still "refreshing." So many shades of blue and green. One could go crazy taking pictures there which I kind of did but it’s hard not to. But I loved that I saw the color which was the exact replica of the blue green crayon in the 64 Crayola box. Hopefully many of you know all 64 and also have a favorite. Ok, now I’ll let you all see the pics…
Wrapping up all things Africa…
A few other odd things I have learned about here are the sports of cricket and rugby. They are about on opposite ends of the spectrum as cricket is a game that continues over five days(!) and rugby is fast and the clock barely stops (like soccer). Rugby, for those of us who grew up watching American football, even if out of duress, is hilarious because rather than the various standard formations that the team follows, basically all the players wildly chase the only poor guy with the ball as he is only allowed to pass it backwards! Who think of these things? But it is satisfying when he makes a "try" (ie. touchdown) and then a "penalty" (ie. a field goal). But in contrast, it’s fun compared to cricket which for those of us that baseball is slow, well cricket is LONG! I have some understanding now of "overs" and the "wicket" but other than that, it just looks like the same thing happens continuously for 5 days! Sorry if I’ve insulted any staunch fans.
Ok, kudos if you’ve gotten all the way to here, amazing how one week can be so packed. Now I’m off to Capetown, S. Africa and Nairobi, Kenya for a week each, which should be a blast as I’m visiting people in both places. For all of you that don’t know already, I’ll be back in states the third week of Sept. and most of the time staying at my mom’s (I think) so until/if I have a cell phone number, that’s probably the best place to track me down. I’ll be back and forth between DC and NY so I’ll for sure try to see everyone. Enjoy the rest of what’s left of summer and please keep it a bit warm for me! See you all soon!
Much love from the land of unemployment…
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