August, 2010

The true test of the camera…

This will be one of the shorter entries I write as my trip to the Uyuni Salt Flats was an experience truly deserving of its own place in the spotlight. The trip consisted of a three-day tour with 4 friends through the salt flats (approx. 100 miles sq.!), then heading south through some of the most amazing landscapes my eyes have ever seen, and ending up at the SW corner of Bolivia just miles from the border of Chile where they have what are called the Colored Lagoons, each having different hues due to the varying minerals in the water. You will see in the photos the white, the green and the pink ones. Flamingos are a familiar site there (even a baby) and since the ecology is desert, the “islands” (really small mountains) that appear in the middle of the salt flats are replete with cacti. The geography changes rapidly there, the wind can be brutal and temperatures were below freezing with the wind at night. Some highlights were seeing the geysers and then getting a dip in the natural hot springs. We also got to see and learn about how the salt is refined for consumption, fyi all of the processing is still done by hand! And in the future, the salts flat will be a lithium gold mine for Bolivia once they get processing and exporting.

My personal favorite though was the “Seven-colored Mountains” which I can attest to since we did take pictures there at different times, we have at least 5 pictures where the colors are completely different. Truly a dream for an artist as you will see. All in all, it was one of the most visually stunning places I have ever been to and as you will see, we had a bit of fun as well taking some silly photos on the salt flats that will trick your eyes. Although I cannot take credit for all of the photos here, enjoy (http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcOGzNk0ZMmLyQ)!

The Next Chapter

As I mentioned last time, I would have an update for future plans. In total I will have spent at the end of my time here one and half years, and as you can see so far, I really try to take advantage of all that Bolivia has to offer and plan to continue doing so until I leave. However, for the last six months of my fellowship I will be going to the World Food Programme’s headquarters, located in (drum roll, please)………Rome, Italy. A bit different that my usual destinations but I am excited about the many prospects it holds for me. I will continue to work on School Feeding issues but globally this time, as an extension of my current work. So as of January, watch out Europe ‘cause here I come!!!

May, 2010

Where to begin?
Since I have turned into such a negligent blogger (oops, time got away from me!), I will try to give you all the highlights of my last 6 months!

Politics: The incumbent President of Bolivia Evo Morales was reelected in December and it was interesting to be here to watch the country in political action. I went with a friend to vote. Here they make you mark your fingerprint to show that you have voted, which is compulsory in Bolivia. There were many fireworks that night as Evo won with over 60% of the vote.

New Year’s was spent with 3 friends and we decided to take a trip to Arequipa, Peru. Arequipa is known for its beautiful architecture and unique construction with sillar, a white volcanic stone used to build the majority of the city. We even ventured two hours further and made our way to coast, which is very exciting to see beach when you live in the mountains!

My friend Richard from England visited in February and we had a blast going to Lake Titicaca and wandering around Sun Island, which is in the lake so when you get to the top, you can see the lake on both sides of the island, truly spectacular views. We also met a really great group of guys who take motorcycle trips together to all sorts of places in Bolivia. Richard was a good sport given the altitude adjustment!

Probably not as well known as Brazil, but Bolivia has the next most celebrated Carnival in South America. I went with some friends to Oruro, which is the town with the most outrageous parade you can imagine, so much so that we were in the stands watching for 12 hrs and still could have stayed longer had we not been really hungry! The costumes, dances and music are just an explosion of energy and lots of practice, and provide much overstimulation for all the senses. It is truly a unique experience, despite the habitual throwing of water balloons and spraying of foam.

In March, I went with my roommate Marisol to Santa Cruz (the other major international entry city to Bolivia) and Cotoca, a small town just outside Santa Cruz. We visited a friend of hers and it was a much more relaxing weekend, in warm weather and enjoying a bit of pool time for a change. It was wonderfully relaxing.

Oh and last but definitely not least, Kevin from France joined us as a roommate for 3 months. He was wacky and great and we got along like 3 peas in a pod. Since I have now taken up French classes, Kevin was kind enough to get me started. Also always nice to have someone around who has good taste in wine, never hurts!

Major Highlights

In Feb, I escaped back to the states to attend my dad and uncle’s 70th birthday party and get a very quick refresher on quality time with my whole family. It was priceless to get to see everyone, especially my sobrinos (nephews) and I am so grateful to have such great people in my family.

On two different weekends, I went with friends trekking through some of the mountains and valleys here, which is always one of the best perks of being here. First we went to Condoriri mountain, which is part of the Andes mountain range a few hours outside of La Paz. The true beauty there is the snow covered portion of the mountain with a glacier lake just in front, reflecting all of its splendor. The scenery here is really breathtaking.

The second weekend my friend Jonna from Sweden and I went to Zongo, which is a valley about 1.5hrs outside of La Paz that gently sits between Huayna Potosí and Chalcaltaya, two other mountains in the Andes. Chalcaltaya used to be a ski resort but now is bare, without snow from the extreme climate change. The lagoons in this valley have colors that don’t even look real, due to the mining that goes on nearby. (Link to pics here http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcOGzNk0ZMmLto)

Are giant tortoises really that giant?
YES!!! So the most major highlight was meeting my mom and stepdad in Ecuador for vacation. We had a couple days in Quito, where we got to go to the actual Equator (hence the name Ecuador) and watch gravity in action. And yes, you can balance an egg on a nail as well as see water drain both counterclockwise and clockwise depending on which side of the equator you are on. Plus, just hanging out in Quito is a marvel unto itself, such an interesting city with so much to offer, even a giant outdoor exercise class with about 100+ people! Oh, and Ecuador is one of the largest exporters of roses in the world. (Quito pics here… http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcOGzNk0ZMmLrw)

Apart from Quito, we decided to go all out and went to the Galapagos Islands!!! Truly a once in a lifetime chance. As one might expect, we got to see quite the gamut of wildlife, as you can see from the pictures. The sea lions had just had pups so no shortage of cuteness going around. The crabs were the most colorful you could imagine. The frigates were weird and wonderful in their own way. Of course the well known blue-footed boobies were a real treat due to their unique coloring and existence. Snorkeling was great and manta rays a plenty. Both land and marine iguanas were bizarrely calm and communal. But the most amazing aspect about being there is that none of the animals fear humans, meaning they don’t even flinch when they see you or are near you. They have no reason to fear humans and you can truly see evolution in action. Darwin did know what he was talking about! Oh and the scenery there isn't so bad either (check out landscape pictures here http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcOGzNk0ZMmLwY).

So that leaves the giant tortoises and for me they were the most surprising. You can’t imagine how big they are until you see them, and especially near a human. Here featured is Lonesome George, a sad story as he is the very last of his species, and as you can see, he’s HUGE! Needless to say, we enjoyed our time on our boat for 5 days, despite the occasional extra stirring and the staff were the most amiable you could dream up. (Galapagos animal and people pics here http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcOGzNk0ZMmLp4&emid=shareprintsharer&linkid=link5&cid=EM_sharshar)

So back in Quito, we met up with my friends Siena and Alvaro and had an amazing brunch halfway up one of the mountains surrounding the city. Food in Quito is good and we certainly took advantage whenever possible. Since I stayed on a few extra days, Siena and I decided to venture up to the glacier on Mount Cotopaxi (pics here http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcOGzNk0ZMmLvg).

Changing of the Guard
So these last few months brought lots of fun but also some goodbyes, specifically to my friend Martin who was my first friend here in La Paz, Kevin, my former roommate, and Davide, my former former roommate who at least is now in the north of Bolivia! Both Kevin and Martin had a blast here and have great plans for the future so I wish them nothing but the best and many thanks for all the fun times.

Work? Oh right!
Yes, so I do actually work here and not just go gallivanting everywhere. Work has been interesting as the government is really dedicating some real time and attention to school feeding here. I got to participate in a few workshops where they asked for our and other’s input, regarding all of the elements that need to be included in the new school feeding law they are designing. It was very exciting to be an integral part of the process and see policy-making in action.

I also got to travel to Riberalta and Guayaramerín, which are both up in the thick of the Amazon and just at the border of Brazil. Beautiful terrain up there and so lush and green. The people couldn’t be nicer and seem quite dedicated and motivated to help the school feeding effort however possible.

Details to come…
As always, there are more trips on the horizon, such as this coming weekend I am off to the Uyuni Salt Flats, which is one of the most unusual and visited tourist sites in all of Bolivia. In July, I will have home leave so will be excited to see many of you then, and for those that I can’t see, we can at least speak state-side.

Plus, in my next entry I will be able to give more details about where I will be next year. I will be in Bolivia through the end of 2010 and will fill you in on the first half of 2011 when it’s been finalized. So will keep you in suspense till then and thanks for your patience! Hope you enjoyed the whirlwind of events in the last 6 months! Best to you all from on high!